Chennai Aesera Jewellery Design Training Academy
No 144/74, Eskay building, 3rd floor,
Greams Road, Thousand Lights
Chennai-6, Tamil Nadu,
India
Mobile: +91-9840966467,+91-9444100081, 9840689781
India
Mobile: +91-9840966467,+91-9444100081, 9840689781
info@jewelrydesignacademy.com
Indian Jewellery History - 2
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Aesera Jewel Design Academy
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Indian Goldsmiths and Workmanship.
Jewelry design is the art or profession of creating, crafting, fabricating, or renderingdesigns for jewelry. This is an ancient practice of the goldsmith or metalworker that evolved to a billion-dollar industry with the odyssey from ancient cultures into the machine age. Jewelry design falls under the category of what is commonly known as "functional art," being art that can be worn or used.
Before an article of jewelry is created, design concepts are rendered followed by detailedtechnical drawings generated by a jewelry designer, a professional who is trained in the architectural and functional knowledge of fabrication techniques, composition, wearability and market trends.
Traditional hand-drawing and drafting methods are still utilized in designing jewelry particularly at the conceptual stage, but a shift is taking place to computer-aided design programs likeRhinoceros 3D and Matrix.
Once conceptual/ideation is complete, the design is rendered and fabricated using the necessary materials for proper adaptation to the function of the object. For example, 24Kgold was used in ancient jewelry design because it was more accessible than silver as source material. Before the 1st century many civilizations also incorporated beads into jewelry. Once the discovery of gemstones andgem cutting became more readily available, the art of jewelry ornamentation and design shifted. The earliest documented gemstone cut was done by Theophilus Presbyter (c. 1070 - 1125), who practiced and developed many applied arts and was a known goldsmith. Later, during the 14th Century, medievallapidary technology evolved to includecabochons and cameos.
Early Jewelry design commissions were often constituted by nobility or the church to honor an event or as wearable ornamentation. Within the structure of early methods, enameling andrepoussé became standard methods for creating ornamental wares to demonstrate wealth, position, or power. These early techniques created a specific complex design element that later would forge the baroquemovement in jewelry design.
Also called as 'Jadtar' or Kundan Jewellery - is embedded with precious stones and reveals the traditional art of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Jadau creations are usually studded with multi-coloured precious and semi-precious stones and are reminiscent of the old Mughal tradition of Jadau jewellery craft. The art of Kundan, combines enameling with uncut or rose cut diamonds and other precious stones encrusted on gold. Kundan Jadtar is a very special craft and not everybody's cup of tea. It requires exceptional skills, concentration and loads and loads of patience. And again, these skills and capabilities have to combine with hard work and aesthetic sense to create a master piece of art.
Whether it is Jadtar, Minakari or Kundan - each style of art imposes stringent process requirements and absolute concentration because of the intricacy involved. Owing to such painstaking efforts and time requirement to craft each piece, there are only a few master His who have this finesse and expertise. Each piece is a unique creation and with quality, purity and care going into its making - it can take several weeks to craft and finish, but one glimpse at the final product and most customers forget the agony of their wait.
The one kind of
traditional jewellery comes from North India. Minakari Jewellery is an
exquisite combination of gems, enamel pigments and precious stones. This
timeless craft goes back to the days of Shah Jahan - whose aesthetic
vision transformed the process of lacquer enameling into a fine art.
Minakari was the preferred style for the imperial thrones of those
times. And even today, Minakari - with its unique carving style on Gold
and Silver continues to dazzle women the world over with motifs of
flowers, plants and scrolling vines.
Hollow ornaments
The unbelievable art of gold work comes from Tamilnadu and Karnataka state mostly South India. These types of jewellery are looking like heavy weighted but actually light weighted ornaments.
The great work of small plain and twisted wires, different small flowers & other shapes with gold grains comes from Gujarat.
Most world-wide popular work of Diamonds & Gemstones. The master workers of this art are Bengali-workers, from West-Bengal, East India.
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Thewa is the art of
18th century inaugurated from Rajasthan, India. Thewa Jewellery is a
different type of art work done by 23k gold and worked on glass. Unique
glasses for Thewa Jewellery are treated by a special process to give a
glittering effect, highlights the intricate gold work. The motifs used
on Thewa jewellery are reflecting the culture, heritage and tales of
romance and valor of State Rajasthan, India.
Four gold sheets, each intended for a Thewa unit, are fixed to a
lac-resin compound spread on a board. Following the design inscribed in
line on the gold, an openwork pattern is pierced through the sheets
using fine cutting chisels. The designs may be a hunting scene, a
delicate climbing plant with equally delicate flowers and leaves, a
gazing deer, a dancing peacock, a woman dressed up in typical Rajasthani
attire, Krishna with gopikas and many other related to this theme.
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