For Further Details contact
Aesera Jewellery Design Training Academy
No 144/74, Eskay Building, 3rd floor
Greams Road, Thousand Lights
Chennai - 600006
Mobile: +919444100081 , 9840689781
seshu.gopal@jewelrydesignacademy.com
Diamond Grading Terminology
A diamond's cost is based on the characteristics known as the
"4 C's". Clarity, Colour and Cut (proportion) are the quality elements which
together with the Carat Weight determine the value of a stone.
The closer a diamond grades
to the left of one or all of these scales the rarer and the more costly it will be. While
clarity is frequently assumed to be the most important factor of all the "C's",
in fact, colour and cut (especially cut) have a more profound affect on the visual
appearance of a diamond.
Diamond Anatomy
Wondering what on earth is the diamond's pavilion? Table? Culet?
The graphic and supporting text below explain the various
"parts" of a diamond.
- Diameter
The width of the diamond as measured through the girdle. - Table
This is the large, flat top facet of a diamond. - Crown
The upper portion of a cut gemstone, above the girdle. - Girdle
The narrow rim of a diamond that separates the crown from the pavilion. It is the largest diameter to any part of the stone. - Pavilion
The lower portion of the diamond, below the girdle. It is sometimes referred to as the base. - Culet
The tiny facet on the pointed bottom of the pavilion, which is the portion of a cut gem below the girdle. - Depth
The height of a gemstone, from the culet to the table.
CUT
Cut is the factor that fuels a diamond’s fire, sparkle and brilliance.
The traditional 58 facets in a round brilliant diamond, each precisely cut and defined,
are as small as two millimeters in diameter. But without this precision, a diamond
wouldn’t be nearly as beautiful. The allure of a particular diamond depends more
on cut than anything else.
An understanding of diamond cut begins with the shape of a diamond. The standard round brilliant is the shape used in most diamond jewelry. All others are known as fancy shapes. Traditional fancy shapes include the marquise, pear, oval and emerald cuts. Hearts, cushions, triangles and a variety of others are also gaining popularity in diamond jewelry.
As a value factor, though, cut refers to a diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish. For example, look at a side view of the standard round brilliant. The major components, from top to bottom, are the crown, girdle and pavilion. A round brilliant cut diamond has 57 or 58 facets, the 58th being a tiny flat facet at the bottom of the pavilion that’s known as the culet. The large, flat facet on the top is the table.
The proportions of a diamond refer to the relationships between table size, crown angle and pavilion depth. A wide range of proportion combinations are possible, and these ultimately affect the stone’s interaction with light.
How a diamond has been cut, polished, and to what proportions and symmetry, are
of utmost importance since these factors determine the life, brilliance and dispersion
of the diamond. If these cutting factors fall below standard, the appearance of
the diamond will be adversely affected.
Cut
Cut, sometimes the forgotten "C", ensures that a given stone has maximum brilliance and sparkle which would not be the case were the stone cut for weight alone.
We use the following scale to grade a stone on it's overall appearance. The shows angles and percentages for round brilliant cut diamonds; but angles and percentages are for diamond cutters and graders. Simply put, when looking at a diamond, if it doesn't catch your eye or if it doesn't flash in the light, it's probably not well cut. Good cutting is what brings fire to the ice.
Don't confuse the diamond's "cut" with the diamond's "shape."
First, don't confuse diamond "cut" with "shape." Shape refers to the general outward appearance of the diamond,
(such as round,emerald or pear).
When a diamond jeweler (or a diamond certificate) says "cut," that's a reference
to the diamond's reflective qualities, not the shape (or at least it should be,
we have found that even some "jewelers" don't appear to know the difference between "cut"
and "shape").
The quality of the "cut" does make a difference in how a diamond looks.
Diamond cut is perhaps the most important of the four Cs, so it is important to understand how this quality affects the properties and values of a diamond. A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, which is that brightness that seems to come from the very heart of a diamond. The angles and finish of any diamond are what determine its ability to handle light, which leads to brilliance.
(See Diamond Anatomy for an explanation of the terms used in the next paragraphs.)
As shown in the images below, when a diamond is well-cut, light enters through the table and travels to the pavilion where it reflects from one side to the other before reflecting back out of the diamond through the table and to the observer's eye. This light is the brilliance we mentioned, and it's this flashing, fiery effect that makes diamonds so mesmerizing.
In a poorly cut diamond, the light that enters through the table
reaches the facets and then 'leaks' out from the sides or bottom of the
diamond rather than reflecting back to the eye. Less light reflected
back to the eye means less brilliance.
Good Proportions are Key
Most gemologists agree that the best cut diamonds are those that follow a set of formulae calculated to maximize brilliance. These formulae can be seen in a diamond's proportions, most importantly how the depth compares to the diameter, and how the diameter of the table compares to the diameter of the diamond.
If you opt to buy a diamond without an certificate, spend some time looking at certified diamonds (where you know the Cut Grade) and train your eyes to identify the better cuts (by their "sparkle"). Cut does make a difference to the outward appearance of a diamond.
An understanding of diamond cut begins with the shape of a diamond. The standard round brilliant is the shape used in most diamond jewelry. All others are known as fancy shapes. Traditional fancy shapes include the marquise, pear, oval and emerald cuts. Hearts, cushions, triangles and a variety of others are also gaining popularity in diamond jewelry.
As a value factor, though, cut refers to a diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish. For example, look at a side view of the standard round brilliant. The major components, from top to bottom, are the crown, girdle and pavilion. A round brilliant cut diamond has 57 or 58 facets, the 58th being a tiny flat facet at the bottom of the pavilion that’s known as the culet. The large, flat facet on the top is the table.
The proportions of a diamond refer to the relationships between table size, crown angle and pavilion depth. A wide range of proportion combinations are possible, and these ultimately affect the stone’s interaction with light.
How a diamond has been cut, polished, and to what proportions and symmetry, are
of utmost importance since these factors determine the life, brilliance and dispersion
of the diamond. If these cutting factors fall below standard, the appearance of
the diamond will be adversely affected.Cut
Cut, sometimes the forgotten "C", ensures that a given stone has maximum brilliance and sparkle which would not be the case were the stone cut for weight alone.
We use the following scale to grade a stone on it's overall appearance. The shows angles and percentages for round brilliant cut diamonds; but angles and percentages are for diamond cutters and graders. Simply put, when looking at a diamond, if it doesn't catch your eye or if it doesn't flash in the light, it's probably not well cut. Good cutting is what brings fire to the ice.
Diamond Cut
Don't confuse the diamond's "cut" with the diamond's "shape."
First, don't confuse diamond "cut" with "shape." Shape refers to the general outward appearance of the diamond,
(such as round,emerald or pear).
When a diamond jeweler (or a diamond certificate) says "cut," that's a reference
to the diamond's reflective qualities, not the shape (or at least it should be,
we have found that even some "jewelers" don't appear to know the difference between "cut"
and "shape"). The quality of the "cut" does make a difference in how a diamond looks.
Diamond cut is perhaps the most important of the four Cs, so it is important to understand how this quality affects the properties and values of a diamond. A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, which is that brightness that seems to come from the very heart of a diamond. The angles and finish of any diamond are what determine its ability to handle light, which leads to brilliance.
(See Diamond Anatomy for an explanation of the terms used in the next paragraphs.)
As shown in the images below, when a diamond is well-cut, light enters through the table and travels to the pavilion where it reflects from one side to the other before reflecting back out of the diamond through the table and to the observer's eye. This light is the brilliance we mentioned, and it's this flashing, fiery effect that makes diamonds so mesmerizing.
Good Proportions are Key
Most gemologists agree that the best cut diamonds are those that follow a set of formulae calculated to maximize brilliance. These formulae can be seen in a diamond's proportions, most importantly how the depth compares to the diameter, and how the diameter of the table compares to the diameter of the diamond.
If you opt to buy a diamond without an certificate, spend some time looking at certified diamonds (where you know the Cut Grade) and train your eyes to identify the better cuts (by their "sparkle"). Cut does make a difference to the outward appearance of a diamond.
However, the variance in the proportions between an Ideal Cut and a
Poor Cut can be difficult to discern by the casual observer.
Because cut is so important, several grading methods have been
developed to help consumers determine the cut of a particular diamond.
In general, these grades are:
- Ideal
- Premium
- Very Good
- Good
- Fair & Poor
Which Grade of Cut Should I Buy?
Selecting the grade of cut is really a matter of preference. To make the best selection, you need to understand the various grades. Please note that the descriptions below are general guidelines.
Ideal Cut
This cut is intended to maximize brilliance, and the typically smaller table sizes of these diamonds have the added benefit of creating a great deal of dispersion or 'fire' as well. Ideal quality diamonds are truly for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest things that money can buy. This category applies only to round diamonds.
Premium
In the case of round diamonds, many Premium Cut diamonds have cuts that are the equal of any Ideal Cut diamond, though they often can be purchased at slightly lower prices than Ideal Cuts. They are intended to provide maximum brilliance and fire. Like the Ideal Cut, these are also for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest things that money can buy.
Very Good
These diamonds reflect most of the light that enters them, creating a good deal of brilliance. With these diamonds, the cutters have chosen to stray slightly from the preferred diamond proportions in order to create a larger diamond. The result is that these diamonds fall slightly outside of some customers' preferences in terms of, for example, table size or girdle width, though, in many cases many of the parameters of diamonds in this range will overlap with certain parameters of diamonds in the Ideal or Premium ranges. Generally, the price of these diamonds in slightly below that of Premium cuts.
Good
Diamonds that reflect much of the light that enters them. Their proportions fall outside of the preferred range because the cutter has chosen to create the largest possible diamond from the original rough crystal, rather than cutting extra weight off to create a smaller Premium quality diamond. Diamonds in this range offer an excellent cost-savings to customers who want to stay in a budget without sacrificing quality or beauty.
Fair & Poor
A diamond graded as fair or poor reflects only a small proportion of the light that enters it. Typically these diamonds have been cut to maximize the carat weight over most other considerations.
Selecting the grade of cut is really a matter of preference. To make the best selection, you need to understand the various grades. Please note that the descriptions below are general guidelines.
Ideal Cut
This cut is intended to maximize brilliance, and the typically smaller table sizes of these diamonds have the added benefit of creating a great deal of dispersion or 'fire' as well. Ideal quality diamonds are truly for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest things that money can buy. This category applies only to round diamonds.
Premium
In the case of round diamonds, many Premium Cut diamonds have cuts that are the equal of any Ideal Cut diamond, though they often can be purchased at slightly lower prices than Ideal Cuts. They are intended to provide maximum brilliance and fire. Like the Ideal Cut, these are also for the person who enjoys knowing that he has one of the finest things that money can buy.
Very Good
These diamonds reflect most of the light that enters them, creating a good deal of brilliance. With these diamonds, the cutters have chosen to stray slightly from the preferred diamond proportions in order to create a larger diamond. The result is that these diamonds fall slightly outside of some customers' preferences in terms of, for example, table size or girdle width, though, in many cases many of the parameters of diamonds in this range will overlap with certain parameters of diamonds in the Ideal or Premium ranges. Generally, the price of these diamonds in slightly below that of Premium cuts.
Good
Diamonds that reflect much of the light that enters them. Their proportions fall outside of the preferred range because the cutter has chosen to create the largest possible diamond from the original rough crystal, rather than cutting extra weight off to create a smaller Premium quality diamond. Diamonds in this range offer an excellent cost-savings to customers who want to stay in a budget without sacrificing quality or beauty.
Fair & Poor
A diamond graded as fair or poor reflects only a small proportion of the light that enters it. Typically these diamonds have been cut to maximize the carat weight over most other considerations.
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